Introduction
A few days ago, we tested several wood filaments on our Witbox Go printer at the DunaTech lab. The idea was simple: find the best filament for projects that make this compact printer stand out. After testing brands like AMOLEN, SUNLU, and some generic ones from AliExpress, we found significant differences in quality, compatibility, and final finish. Here’s what we discovered. If you’re wondering whether to buy wood 3D filament for Witbox Go, the short answer is yes—but only if you choose the right type and tweak your settings. This guide covers everything you need to know to get that warm, wood-like finish without the headaches.
Types of Wood Filament
When you buy wood 3D filament for Witbox Go, you’re not buying real wood—it’s a PLA base mixed with finely ground wood particles, usually from pine, birch, or bamboo. The concentration of those particles defines the look, feel, and printability. Based on our tests, the main types include:
– **Filament with high wood concentration (30%-40%)**: Very aesthetic, but it can clog the extruder if not properly calibrated. The finish is almost like sanded wood, and you can even stain or sand it post-print. However, on the Witbox Go, we saw frequent jams with these.
– **Filament with low wood concentration (10%-15%)**: Less textured but flows better in mid-range printers like the Witbox Go. It’s the safe bet for consistent results.
– **Bamboo filament**: A lighter variant, ideal for small decorative projects. It has a finer particle size, so it’s less abrasive on the nozzle.
In our tests, we noticed that filaments with high particle concentration tend to create more natural finishes, perfect for models or decorations. However, they require specific adjustments to the printing temperature to avoid issues. For the Witbox Go, we recommend sticking to 15% or less unless you upgrade the nozzle. Also, keep in mind that wood filament absorbs moisture faster than standard PLA—store it in a dry box or use it within a few days of opening.
Compatibility with Witbox Go
The Witbox Go, being a printer designed for ease of use and compactness, has certain limitations that directly affect how well it handles wood filament. Here’s the deal: it works, but you need to respect its boundaries.
1. **Filament diameter:** It only accepts 1.75 mm filaments. That’s standard, so no issue there.
2. **Non-reinforced extruder:** It’s not ideal for abrasive filaments or those with large particles. The stock brass nozzle will wear down faster with high-concentration wood, and the PTFE tube can deform if you push temperatures too high.
After adjusting the nozzle temperature between 200°C and 210°C (slightly higher than standard PLA), we achieved decent results with low-concentration wood filaments. Filaments like SUNLU (15% wood) performed well, while high-concentration filaments (30%-40%) caused several clogs. One thing we didn’t expect: the Witbox Go’s part cooling fan is adequate but not powerful. If you’re printing tall models, you might see slight warping on overhangs. A simple fix is to enable “minimum layer time” in your slicer to let each layer cool properly.
Take note: the Witbox Go has somewhat limited ventilation. If you’re using wood filament, make sure to reduce the printing speed to between 40 and 50 mm/s to avoid cooling issues. Also, set your retraction distance to 1.5-2 mm—too much retraction can pull molten filament into the heatbreak and cause jams. In our experience, a retraction speed of 25 mm/s worked best.
Common Issues and Solutions
Here are the most frequent problems we encountered when printing with wood filament on the Witbox Go. Each one has a clear symptom, cause, and fix so you can get back to printing fast.
1. Extruder clogs
– **Symptom:** Filament stops extruding mid-print, or you hear a clicking sound from the extruder gear.
– **Cause:** Large wood particles accumulating in the nozzle. This happens more with high-concentration filaments or if the filament has absorbed moisture (wood particles swell).
– **Solution:** Use a low-concentration wood filament (≤15%) and clean the nozzle periodically with specific needles. Also, dry your filament at 45°C for 4-6 hours before printing. If clogs persist, switch to a hardened steel nozzle (0.4 mm or 0.5 mm).
2. Uneven finish
– **Symptom:** The surface looks rough, with visible layer lines or a “fuzzy” texture in some spots but not others.
– **Cause:** Unstable temperature or printing speed too high. Wood filament is sensitive to temperature fluctuations—even a 5°C drop can change the flow.
– **Solution:** Maintain the temperature between 200°C and 210°C and reduce the speed to 40 mm/s. Also, enable “coasting” in your slicer to reduce oozing between moves.
3. Fragility in the final piece
– **Symptom:** The printed part snaps easily along layer lines, especially thin walls.
– **Cause:** Low layer adhesion due to insufficient flow. Wood particles disrupt the PLA bond, making layers weaker.
– **Solution:** Increase the flow to 110% in the slicer and use a heated bed at 60°C if possible. Also, print with a 0.4 mm nozzle at 0.2 mm layer height—thinner layers improve adhesion. For structural parts, consider using a standard PLA shell with a wood-fill infill.
4. Stringing and oozing
– **Symptom:** Thin strands of filament between separate parts of your print.
– **Cause:** Wood filament retains heat longer, so it oozes during travel moves.
– **Solution:** Increase travel speed to 100 mm/s and enable “wipe” in your slicer. If stringing persists, lower the temperature by 5°C.
FAQ
Do I need a special nozzle for wood filament?
Yes, if you plan to use filaments with a high particle concentration (≥30%). In our tests, a hardened steel nozzle significantly reduced clogs. For low-concentration filaments (≤15%), the stock brass nozzle works fine, but expect some wear after 500+ grams of printing.
Is wood filament harder to print than standard PLA?
Generally, yes. It requires fine adjustments to temperature and printing speed. However, the results are worth it for decorative projects. The learning curve is about 2-3 test prints—once you dial in the settings, it’s as reliable as regular PLA.
What is the best wood filament for the Witbox Go?
The SUNLU filament with 15% wood particles offered the best balance between quality and compatibility. It printed smoothly at 205°C and 45 mm/s, with minimal stringing. AMOLEN’s wood filament (20%) was also good but required a 0.5 mm nozzle to avoid clogs.
Can I sand or stain wood filament prints?
Yes, but only with high-concentration filaments (≥30%). Low-concentration filaments have too much PLA, so sanding feels like sanding plastic. For staining, use a wood stain gel and apply it lightly—the PLA base won’t absorb it like real wood, but it gives a nice tint.
How do I store wood filament to avoid moisture issues?
Store it in an airtight container with silica gel desiccant. Wood filament can absorb moisture from the air in just a few hours, leading to popping sounds and poor layer adhesion. If you live in a humid area, use a filament dryer before each print.
Conclusion
Printing with wood filament on the Witbox Go is entirely possible but requires precise adjustments to avoid issues. If you’re looking for ease of use, opt for low-concentration filaments like SUNLU. Always remember to clean the nozzle and adjust the speed to achieve optimal finishes. For decorative projects—like coasters, vases, or figurines—the wood effect is stunning and well worth the extra effort. Just don’t expect it to hold up under heavy mechanical stress. Stick to the settings we outlined, and you’ll be turning out beautiful wood-grain prints in no time.
— The DunaTech Team